CUBA! Mexico City, Days 1 and 2 in Havana

After the break up, I really wanted to do *all of the bad things.* I am a pretty hard lined good girl, so when I saw "bad things," that's a pretty low standard. I mostly drank beer and went dancing with girlfriends. When I thought of the absolute worst thing I could possibly do, going on vacation to a communist country seemed pretty bad. So that's what I decided to do.

With about 3 weeks to spare I planned this trip. I had great difficulty getting my airfare because the credit card kept rejecting the transaction since it was originating in Mexico, but eventually I got it booked less than 2 weeks out!

From my nieces in New York, I flew into Sacramento, came home, and at 4am the next morning I got up and took an Uber to the airport again to fly to John Wayne (Orange County) and then to Mexico City, and then to Havana! I had a lot of difficulty in Mexico, their tram system between terminals wasn't working and I was told by the airline employees I needed to change my money into pesos to buy a bus pass because it wasn't safe to walk between terminals- but I only had so much cash on me to take to Cuba because there was no way for me to pull my money out there since American cards don't work there. It turned out I only needed about 17 cents changed or something dumb, but I didn't understand that at the time, and in the end, it turned out I didn't even need what I had turned over! There was a free van that was shuttling passengers, just nobody seemed to know about it. It was very frustrating and stressful.

 In the Sacramento or Orange County Airport, I think, with all my gear! I never ever check bags!

 My very first look at Mexico! I thought the whole airport was very interesting looking.

 It took me awhile to realize I was int he wrong terminal, so I was pretty happy just hanging out where I was at... but once I realized I was int he wrong place I stopped taking photos and panicked.

 Once I got in the van and was bumping around driving between terminals,I totally started crying though. I just felt so at home and authentic to myself. I hadn't felt like myself in so long, definitely not since the break up, and being on the road just felt like ME and it felt SO GOOD. I was so glad to be there! Watching the busy, crowded, dirty scenery flash past was so comforting to me- I can't even fully explain it. To travel- to travel solo- is to be at home for me. It is my most authentic self and I was so happy.

Going through security at the international terminal the security personnel flipped out over my camera equipment. I guess they thought I was smuggling drugs or something? They scanned, and re-scanned my equipment and gave me the third degree about the fact I hadn't brought a camera bag. (I was lazy and worried I might get targeted for theft.) I was at security for 20 minutes,MINIMUM. It was a little insane. Finally they let me go. It was a little much.

Finally, I got on the AeroMexico flight and off I went- TO CUBA!!!!!!!!!!!

Habana's main airport is small,and bright, bright red. I landed late at night, especially after some pretty intense delays.I changed my money without issue and negotiated my taxi for  25 CUC to my hostel. Speeding around town (more like drag racing) at 1 or 2am with all of the windows down was amazing. But when we got to my hostel, the driving refused to give me change. I only had big bills, so I had I think, 20 CUC, or 30CUC, but not 25. He offered to take, of course the 30, but I demanded he give me change. He claimed he had no change. I offered him 20. So then he banged on my casa particular's door until the owner's came and exchanged angry words with them until they found me some change. It was CRAZY. The night watchman did not speak much English (or more likely- just hesitant to speak it- all Cubans learn English in school) but communicated very clearly he thought the driver was trying to scam me and he thought I was doing the right thing. The night I left, I gave the night watchman all of the CUP currency I had left as a tip. (CUP is the people's street currency, which doesn't have much value- but can buy a lot of food. CUC is the national or government currency and is used primarily by tourists. You would need both when traveling.)

The next morning I got up, and met my hostel mates, including a lovely Aussie from Perth, Ahn who offered to walk me into town. I had already read the sexual harassment was pretty intense and she said it would be a better introduction if we walked together since it was about a 20 minute walk. I happily took her up on her offer, and she was not kidding. Literally every block I would get a nasty comment- "Hey pretty lady, wanna f***?""Hey pretty lady, you have nice t*ts!" Again, it was CRAZY. Ahn told me to just say, "No gracias," and keep walking. And she was right. The comments stopped right there. That's all you had to do. Be assertive and look bored. It was disturbing at first but within a day it felt like old news. I was glad I had her to show me the ropes.

Walking out of the hostel was really overwhelming. The streets were full of people- poverty stricken, dirty, children and adults running around broken down streets, laundry water being thrown out windows and people shouting. Dogs and cats ran around everywhere. Used condoms all over the street. There wasn't much garbage on the street, but lots of broken concrete everywhere. 

It kind of reminded me of New Orleans,but after an apocalypse. I don't think I actually took any photos of the neighborhood my hostel was in, which was an actual Cuban neighborhood, and a good long walk from old town, but this is what a typical Cuban street looked like- but this is much cleaner. Most buildings looked much dirtier. But every single road was run down like this, for whatever reason. I didn't see a single road that wasn't. There was also huge amounts of construction going on to fix the roads because of Obama's visit. He came the week after I came! I would wake up every morning to huge changes around the city. From one day to the next they had planted flowers allover the entire Capitol's lawn and re surfaced all of the marble! Overnight!

I spent two full days in Havana, which was more than enough to find my way around and see everything I wanted to see. I wandered around the old fort, old town, Flordita's (Hemmingway's bar), checked out the water front, and as much shopping as I could stand.

 At the entrance to China town.

 There was a little ice cream stand in there!

 The Capitol, modeled after OURS! And all of that construction going on in preparation of Obama's visit.

 The nicest hotel in Habana or something? But don't patronize hotels... The money goes to the government. To travel ethically, stay in casa particulars- basically a b n b or a hostel.

 Looking out at the old fort.

 The art district- art is hige there.

 My friend Ahn, washing her underwear in the sink!

 The local children doing PE.

 At the main museum.

 On the second day, I did a double decker bus tour,I as I usually do. It's a great way to get your bearings around a city and save your legs when you're tired from walking too much. And I saw the CopaCabana driving around!

 You can see my money belt/necklace hanging out but literally I had money stuffed into every place possible. It was in my bra, underwear, pockets- everywhere! I was very concerned about being robbed and rightly so. Desperate people do desperate things and I don't blame them either. But I covered myself. Americans currently have no other way to get out money, so I couldn't risk it.

I went out clubbing at the FAC, an art district building and museum that night, and off to Vinales the next morning. That's another post though!